How chocolate changed the world: an upcoming investigation

Following the awarding of a Global Professorship by the British Academy, the history of chocolate and how it has changed the world will be investigated at the University of Reading Department of Archaeology.

From early 2023, Dr Kathryn Sampeck, who is currently based at Illinois State University in the United States, will be leading the research over a four-year period. Sampeck will delve into the role Central America has played in the confectionery’s past and how the region is still playing a big part in its trade today.

The project will place the spotlight on western El Salvador as the birthplace of chocolate, which was home to the Izalcos Pipil — a group who played a pivotal role in the production of this global commodity.

Sampeck said, “Chocolate emerged in an unusual place and time and what started as a local home recipe spread like wildfire. Central America is pivotal to this global story, but its place in chocolate’s history has been seriously neglected.

“This is because we have lacked the evidence and tools needed to evaluate these countries’ roles. By doing a deep dive into this region’s cuisine history, we will better understand the issues of sustainability and structural inequality surrounding chocolate today.”

According to market research, today, up to 50 million people worldwide depend on cacao for their livelihood, and the global chocolate industry was valued at more than $89 billion in 2021.

The study has been made possible after Sampeck secured more than £850,000 (GBP) from the British Academy through the Global Professorship scheme. This provides arts, humanities and social sciences academics the opportunity to work in the UK for four years and is funded by the UK’s department for Business, Energy and Industrial Strategy.

This is one of eight Professorships awarded in 2022, and the first time the University of Reading has been awarded a Global Professorship.

Sampeck’s project will be based in the Department of Archaeology — a leading centre for research into the deep history of food production and diet — where archaeological materials collected from El Salvador will be analysed and interpreted.

She will also collaborate with the British Museum to use its scientific expertise and facilities in the chemical analysis of ancient food remains, engage with the Latin American and Caribbean Network as well as University Museums and Special Collections Services at the University of Reading.

The University of Reading is a fitting place for the research to take place, as the institution is home to the International Cocoa Quarantine Centre.

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